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A lock on the canal
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Today, it was downhill Baby!!! At least for about 32 miles. Sweet!!!! We got up around 6:30 with the intentions of getting on the road early but first we had to clean the bike chains since we were too tired to do it last night. Then we loaded up and headed out to breakfast. We had heard about a place that only served breakfast all day and closed at 2:00AM. We mentioned it to Helen who owned the motel we stayed at last night and she gave us directions. We followed her directions but didn't see it. We asked a man who was pulling out of a drive way and he said he was going there and to follow him. He took us back to where started and the little drive-in diner that we had rejected last night because of all of the derelicts hanging around. We said thanks but no thanks and headed back up the hill following Helen's directions. We still couldn't find it so Keith road back up back up the hill to the city directory and found out that the restaurant had changed names and we were in the right location. We finally got on the trail at 8:30 and road slightly uphill to the Eastern Continental Divide. I have now ridden my bike across both continental divides, how many people can say that?
We started out riding the glorious downhill trail. After a few miles we came to the Mt Savage tunnel. It was well lit and was fun to go through. After a few more glorious downhill miles, we came to the Mason Dixon line and the Maryland border, another state border crossed on a bike. We continued downhill to the Bordon tunnel. This tunnel was not as long as the Mt Savage tunnel and although it wasn't lit, we could see the light at the end and the road was nicely paved so we decided to go through without bothering to put our lights on. Big mistake!! After a few hundred yards into the tunnel it was impossible to see anything, not the road, not the walls nothing but the light at the end. I began to become very disoriented. I felt like I was floating in a big dark void and was beginning to not know which way was up. I was contemplating stopping and rigging the lights but I decided if I focused on the light, I could manage and I did. Keith and I talked about it and realized that we both experienced the same disorientation. Very strange experience.
We continued down and began to parallel the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad. It is a passenger train taking tourist up the mountain. It went by just after we had stopped to see the Cumberland Bone cave. It was discovered as they were making the cut for the railroad. It was very interesting to see rock formations exposed to view that would normally be found deep in a cave.
We continued down and eventually came to the town of Cumberland where the Great Allegheny Passage ends and the C&O canal towpath begins. We stopped and had lunch before starting on the towpath. It was fascinating to the old canal locks and lockmaster houses which remain but there is a tremendous difference in the quality of the Gap trail and the Towpath. The Gap is in great shape and the road surface is smooth and free of holes and obstructions. The towpath is very rocky and bumpy. You can not relax because of mudholes roots rocks etc. which appear without notice. We were still going downhill but it was not as steep a grade and we had to peddle hard.
We met a couple (Anna and Randy) .from Virginia who were traveling our route and staying at the same places we are staying. We rode along with them and came to the Paw Paw tunnel. Keith and I having learned our lesson at the Bordon tunnel put on our lights. Randy had a headlight but Anna didn't think she needed one. They went on ahead of us as we got our gear ready. This tunnel is 3700 feet long and although you can see the light at the other end it gets totally dark. We got in few hundred yards and found the path surface was very rough and uneven. Even with lights it was tough going. All of a sudden I came upon Anna who was just standing there. She could not move because she couldn't see anything and had lost touch with Randy. She asked if I was walking and I said no but I was riding slow. She said she could run so she started to run behind me pushing her bike. She is a marathoner so she is in condition. After awhile we came up to Randy who was walking his bike because his light had gotten pretty dim. She asked him if he wanted her to go with him but he said she was doing just fine so she should go on running after me. We finally got to the end of the tunnel and waited for Keith and Randy who walked the path. We all agreed that it was quite an adventure.
We finally got to Little Orleans and Bill's restaurant and saloon where we were to be picked up by the B&B folks. This was another experience that we won't soon forget. Bill's is the only place for anything to eat or drink. The locals looked like they where directly out of deliverance. Our ride came and rode us up to the B&B which is really a 40 plus room hotel that sits on top of a mountain on RT 40. Very Nice!
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| Continental Divide |
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| Keith crossing thedivide |
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| Getting ready to enter the Savage Mountain Tunnel |
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| Inside theSavage Mountain Tunnel |
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| View from the top of Mt Savage |
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| Maryland border |
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| Bordon Tunnel |
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| Another great view from the trail |
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| Cave formation outside the cave |
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| Western Maryland train |
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| Canal boat at thestart of the C&O Tow Path |
Tomorrow is another day and more adventures.
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